It’s easy to become cynical about bars in a city where every neighborhood has its own expertly branded nouveau speakeasy. It is impossible to be cynical at Daddy-O. There is no branding to speak of here. The glassware is not special. There is a television. The television plays hockey games. And yet, Daddy-O’s enthusiasm for spirits — especially whisky — rivals, and bests, far more obnoxious establishments. The written tome spans 500 hand-picked bottles, with not even a hint of pretension.

Two very different types of tipplers gather at this Village bar: those seeking PBR by the can, and those requiring a superb selection of Scotch (more than 30 single-malts, including the 15-year-old Islay Bruichladdich). Get there early to claim a snug corner leather booth or a table, and curb late-night hunger pangs with a top-notch burger (served until 4am).

Daddy-O is neither a two-bit saloon nor a dive; call it a bit-and-a-half saloon. It’s got the work ethic of a dive—it’s open until 4:00 A.M., without fail, and the kitchen accepts orders until 3:59.59—and a, let’s say, casual approach to mixology, but the spirits selection is top-notch, with rare mescals and whiskeys galore, and the hospitality can’t be beat. No wonder it’s a favorite with bartenders.

Daddy-O owner Philip Casaceli reportedly drove Pat LaFrieda crazy perfecting the custom dry aged blend for his burger. You will be glad he did. Served on a classic sesame seed bun with lettuce, tomato and red onion and tater tots. $15.